back in the lineup

Pro Watch

2011-09-06T19:06:00.000-07:00

I sat and watched a contest the other day (Dane R. wasn't there, unfortunately although it was in his backyard), my first time ever. I've never been much of a follower of pro surfing. My disinterest is partially philosophical - I resent something as free and fun as surfing to be measured, judged, sponsored, and used to sell for the corporation LOL. I don't even like pictures of airs, because half the time I can't see the wave! And I don't do airs, so I can't relate.

But doggone, it was a lot of fun watching the pros in person. The outstanding thing was the speed - riding the same waves as I do, they just go so much faster. And airs are a blast to watch in person, them guys are acrobats! One thing I noticed - how much more "crouched" the pros ride than the rest, like a spring in compression.

painted and lammed

2011-08-14T23:48:00.000-07:00

the banana board

2011-08-06T23:56:00.000-07:00

I picked up this cool Progressive Surfboards 7-10 at a yardsale in Santa Barbara the other day. It needed repairs to the nose and tail, and had several bad dings on the bottom, some of which had a bit of rot.

So I cut the nose and tail off, and glued a wood block on. I left the nose blunt (now its a 7-7), since I like the look, and I consider narrow pointed noses to be dangerous to other surfers. But while repairing the bottom, I decided it needed a paint job too. Its not finished, I'll try to remember to post up some pics when it is, but you get the idea anyway...

a day in the life of...

2011-06-30T01:51:00.001-07:00

Arrgghh! Its a tough life, I tell you, being a 56 year old grommet (again). Drove to the beach on Sunday. First time in months! The bad economy, the high price of gas, I've been working long hours, and getting nowhere (especially not the beach)! So I just did it. Turns out there was a tri-athelon at the beach that day. Traffic was a mess. Parking a headache. I needed a fin, and went to two surf shops - both not open (this was 9:30 a.m.!!). Used a fin I had, even 'tho it wasn't right for the board.

Surf was small and getting blown out fast. Hurried to put my wetsuit on - I was a bit sweaty, so it stuck to my skin, and just didn't want to go on! Fought to get the doggone thing on.

Dodged my way through the runners and bikers and spectators, and made it down to the water. Paddled out, and a small set just hammered me. Barely made it out! Man, I guess I am out of shape for surfing!

Finally got out, and it was getting choppy. After only a few mediocre waves, I decided the next one would be my last. The tide had come up, the wind had come up, and everyone had gotten out. A set came through, I paddled. The peak popped up, the left lined up, and I was off! Small but great wave (to me), I rode it all the way in. Ahh yes, life is good. Another link in the chain of the surfing life.

It doesn't get any easier as we age, but it doesn't get any less fun either!

wood rail system workshop / class

2010-11-17T12:32:00.000-08:00

Since I've had and responded to many requests to explain my "bahrman rails" system, I've been thinking about how best to present/explain the system to an interested group. So after a year of using the system, I am offering a step-by-step workshop / class to interested persons. Cost will be minimal, at $15 per person. This is an online class, so all the teaching will take place at your computer, and in your own working environment whatever that is.

Bahrman rails are so named because many people asked me if my board had Jensen rails, and I had to explain it was my own rail system. So to distinguish it from any other rail systems, I began calling it the bahrman rail system. I don't claim to have invented anything new, I haven't patented or copyrighted it, and don't doubt something very similar has been done by others before. In fact, I know one shaper who posts pics online has a similar system, 'tho not identical.

With the bahrman rail system, the rails can be built first, and the strength of the board is in the rails. The rails effectively become the perimeter stringer, and a very strong one at that. Because of this, the remainder of the board can be filled in with a variety of different methods. If you normally work with foam, you can build your board with foam. The method would work well with compsand, and is probably similar to many compsand boards being made today. If you like the "fish bones" method of most hollow wood surfboards, you can build accordingly. To test the structure, I even built a board just using the rails and a piece of plywood glued top and bottom, it works fine so far.

The weight of the rails is comparable to most wood rail systems, and is dictated largely by the wood chosen. Balsa or paulownia are probably the lightest, although I have always used 2x6 Calif. redwood, sometimes combined with 1x6 cedar, because they are available very inexpensively at my local big-box stores. I recommend using an inexpensive wood that is fairly light and easy to shape for your first time. Later, once the process is understood, you may go to more expensive woods if desired.

If you want to get experimental, this is a good method to know. Because the rails carry so much of the strength of the board, the options open up for the actual remaining structure. Use your imagination. Once you understand the system, you will see that it can be modified in numerous ways, and you can proceed to customize and experiment on personalizing the process on your own future builds. A rocker table is not required for this system, but a solid flat workbench top is. Also recommended is a good set of shaping racks, like shown in the bottom picture.

This is a solid rail system, that is carved or sanded to shape. To build the rails, you will probably want to use a handheld jigsaw (which is what I use) or a bandsaw (which I would use if I had one!). Clamps are helpful, although screws can be used instead, and then taken out once the glue dries. To shape the rails, a belt sander, 4" handheld grinder with sanding disc, and power planer may be used. Although they could be shaped without power tools (carved and sanded) if so desired. Although not difficult, if you are not comfortable with "shaping" your rails, this is probably not the system for you. And you should be aware that there is a certain amount of "waste" when carving or shaping, that differs from the minimal sanding required of rails built with strips.

$15 U.S. cost of class, no refunds for withdrawal. I will set it up so that payment may be made by PayPal, credit card, or you can send a money order by mail. Everyone will have access to a step-by-step detailed explanation of the process with accompanying pictures / drawings as needed. You can proceed at your own rate, but will be expected to keep your project moving forward on a regular basis.

Classes will be conducted through a private Delphi forum not open to the public, so you must join Delphi (free), and you must be able to post pics. A separate photo-hosting site is highly recommended - like flickr photobucket or picasa, (most are free), as Delphi picture size and space is very limiting, but with a separate photo hosting site, there are no limits. I cannot answer questions very well if I can't see a pic of your project, and I will expect every student to post pics of their progress. To see if you can use Delphi and post pics, you are welcome to try my free public Delphi forum Surfers Surfing Surfboards.

I will walk everyone who joins through the process. You must have a full-sized board template (plan shape) and rocker template (stringer shape) to proceed. Because this will be a group forum, we will learn from each other also, but without the distraction of outside observers and trolls.

Registration will be open until the end of the month. At the first of December, class will begin. What you will end up with is a wood surfboard perimeter rail. You can build your board using any method you want. While the class does not concern itself with the remainder of the build, I will answer questions and discuss the options for those who desire.

If you are interested, email me at doghousereilley@yahoo.com, and title your email "bahrman rails class"

- Huck

2010-11-10T18:26:00.000-08:00

My new forum is for everyone who cares to discuss the designing, building, and riding of surfboards. Come join us if you'd like.
Surfers Surfing Surfboards (forum)

My ONE YEAR anniversary

2010-10-25T00:59:00.000-07:00

This month marks my one year anniversary since coming back to surfing after 23 years away, and since beginning my first homebuilt hollow wooden surfboard! Its been a great ride so far! In that year I have accumulated 8 surfboards, 5 which I built myself, one I rebuilt that was broken in two, and I've begun my 6th homebuilt which will be my 9th board!

I have developed my own (somewhat convoluted) system of building boards, tried and failed to get anyone else to try it , posted over 1000 messages on Swaylocks surfboard design forum and over 800 messages on tree-to-sea wood surfboard builders' forum (and read a hundred times that amount), started three blogs and one website, all related to my love of building and riding hollow wooden surfboards.

To commemorate my first year, I have inaugurated my first annual board swap - the idea is this: Someone (another surfboard builder) could give me an idea of the shape they want, and I'll build a Huck Board (wood will feature largely, of course), in exchange for a custom board they build for me.

So...I got a taker! Looks like I'll be building a Gerry Lopez style lightening bolt (single fin pintail) out of wood!

(I'm trying to keep this posting positive, because I haven't been surfing for over a week, and I know there's been waves I've been missing, but I can't afford to take any time off work for probably another week, and its killing me!!)

Just go surfin'!!

2010-10-15T21:21:00.000-07:00

That's the number one way to get the old sea legs back! So I've been trying to get out once a week, even if I just have to drop everything and do it. I don't always get away with it, and it has cost me some lost work time, but at my age you realize the good time for doing this is never gonna come if you wait for it - just grab the board and go!

That, and I keep buying and building surfboards!

gettin' STOKED!

2010-07-01T20:58:00.000-07:00

Hi all - I haven't been posting much lately, and here's the reason: I'm working a job in Pacific Palisades, on the coast, minutes away from several excellent surf spots, including Malibu. As most of you know, I live in Bakersfield, 2 hrs. plus from the beach by freeway.

Now, I was getting frustrated with my wave count and skill level on my hws - so several people advised me to try a longboard. I started to make one, but realized I have zero - zip - zilch longboard experience, so I hesitated to just start building. Instead, I bought a used 9' p.u. foam / fiberglass board. I have been hitting the surf with it every day, crowds or no crowds, waves or no waves, before work, and some days after work too.

I have increased my wave count dramatically, and have gotten somewhere back near my old skill level. I mean, I have a ways to go, because longboarding is new to me, so I haven't gotten the board wired yet, and I'm still not as limber or as strong as I used to be. But I can paddle into some decent surf, and get some good rides, late takeoffs, bottom turns, trimming, long rides with a long paddle back out. That's what I've been missing, and I am so STOKED to get back to this place. So this has been my priority.

Making boards can wait a bit, I'm goin' SURFING! I have another week or maybe a little more on this job - I don't plan on backing off my schedule. I stay at my mom's place in L.A., and sleep on the couch. Up at 3:30 or 4 a.m., take the freeway (hour drive when there's no traffic in the early morning) to Malibu vicinity, in the water by 5 or 5:30, surf until 8, relax a bit and eat, go to work at 9, work straight through til 3, fight freeway traffic all afternoon, get back to my mom's place, take a nap, go the hardware store for supplies, eat a light meal, run a mile, hit the hay early so I can do it again tomorrow.

Today and yesterday I met up with a surfer I met on Swaylock's. He took me to a "secret spot" point break. 3 of us out - hooting each other, and saying "Go for it, this one is yours"!! Unreal. Totally tubular waves, breaking in shallow water real close to rocky shore, but totally makeable point surf, just keep an eye on the rocks, and kick out if you start getting too close. Sea lions and dolphins everywhere, gorgeous green cliffs, no one around, a real hoot. Man I love surfing!

persistence pays off

2010-06-12T12:30:00.000-07:00

Its been a long road back, frustrating at times, but I've had a few very enjoyable surf sessions lately. Not that I'm back to surfing like I once did (I realize that may never happen with my current age/health issues), but I've been getting my "sea legs" back, catching and riding waves with more confidence - and it feels good!

Exercise and training, losing weight, proper board selection, right wave conditions, all of this has played a part. My newest board, a 9' Rockin Fig (by Rick Fignetti) has made a huge difference in my wave count. The fact that the surf has been small and relatively uncrowded has helped also.

What I've learned is this: When you've been away from surfing as long as I have, you have to start all over from scratch. Forget what you once knew or did, and allow yourself to be a beginner all over. You'll come up through the levels of ability much faster, and enjoy it more this way. Get some water time in tiny surf, riding a mat or swimming. Get a beginners' board, and hit the slower waves at the beginner spots.

Don't make the mistake I made, of getting an advanced surfboard shape, and paddling into some powerful surf, until you've worked your way up to it.

And of course, you can't overlook the obvious: just get out there in the water as much as you possibly can.

inspiring surf-fitness video

2010-05-07T07:56:00.000-07:00

because this is where my journey is taking me right now, I'm gonna post a surf-fitness video or two. Training and conditioning seems to be key for me at present. The other thing I'm going to have to address more fully in time, is board design: shape, volume, rocker, etc. But due to budget and other limitations, I can't fully explore that avenue at present. But fitness is something I can work on every day, and that is my resolve.

Fitness for Life from Surf Stronger on Vimeo.

There are 4 good videos on surf-fitness training, that I am unable to embed. You can access them here - this is a link to the first video (with annoying ads at first, sorry), and you can then click on the others if you'd like to watch them. I think they are worth watching.

most neglected blog - most difficult challenge

2010-05-06T15:31:00.000-07:00

This has been my most neglected blog, because, sad to say, getting back into the lineup has been my most difficult challenge! I mean, getting back into any kind of real surfing shape, has been harder than I ever imagined it would be. Perhaps I expected too much too soon? I have been away from surfing for 23 years, back at it for a few months, and really my times out in the water could be counted on my two hands.

After my pretty good session at Rincon awhile back, I've had several very frustrating sessions at Malibu and Stables, both point break waves that should be relatively easy to catch and ride.

Now I'm not in bad shape, at all. But when I paddle out into the surf, I can tell I'm not anywhere near the condition I need to be. My comfort level is not where it should be. Maybe part of it is that I need to get a longer board? But I should be able to paddle out on the boards I have, and catch waves comfortably.

While I've had a few good days and a few good waves, I have not reached anywhere near the level of proficiency I set my sights on. So, I have to buckle down and really begin training in earnest. This is difficult, in view of the fact that I live hours from the beach, only get out once a month or so, the current bad economy, health issues, etc.

But no excuses - if I'm gonna do it, I just gotta do it. Period. All that other stuff is just background noise to be blocked out!

So this is my quest: to up my fitness game, to match the level circumstances I will be putting myself in.

in search of the magic board

2010-04-21T10:58:00.000-07:00

click here to follow my saga: in search of the magic longboard size and shape

The power of positivity

2010-04-06T03:46:00.001-07:00

On a recent holiday, my wife said "Let's go surfing". Meaning, let's you go surfing (she doesn't surf). So who was I to argue?

Then she said "Where would you go if you knew it would be uncrowded?". So I told her, but I added, "It will be crowded. It's always crowded." She ignored that. "OK", she said, "that's where we're going." You're nuts I said, it's always crowded. But I told her how to get there, and she drove. And guess what? Yup. Totally uncrowded, like 4-5 guys out. Waves small, choppy, but 3-4', some head high sets, totally rideable, and very fun!

And best of all, it clicked for me! I didn't catch every wave I paddled for, but I stood up on every wave I caught. Hit some turns. Made some sections. Felt comfortable on the waves, in control. It was so awesome to start to get the old feeling back!

And on one wave, the coolest thing happened: a dolphin popped his head up, swam for the wave, caught it, and jumped completely out of the water just a matter of feet from where I was. It was an incredible thing to witness. God is good, and I praise him for his awesome creation!

the "hard yards"

2010-03-28T00:25:00.000-07:00

In Laird Hamilton's book Force of Nature, there is a quote from his buddy Dave Kalama, where he talks about 'putting in the hard yards', meaning the unseen work that lead up to his and Laird's success in big waves.

I often think about that, as I work on getting back into the lineup. Its an uphill challenge. But every time I paddle out and get worked by the waves, or banged into the rocks, I think about the "hard yards", the work it takes to accomplish those goals worth working for, and it keeps me plugging away!

While on a business trip to the coast, I recently paddled into some small surf in Ventura, then later in the same day, Malibu. On the way out, I hit my knee on the rocks at Ventura, very painful. I struggled with the pain of that injured knee, the crowded conditions and fatigue at Malibu. Hard yards.

But then, sittting on my board in the water, I picked up a seaweed leaf, and studied it. I thought about the beauty of that leaf, the beauty of the day, the miracle of being able to surf on ocean waves, and it made me appreciate being alive and healthy on God's beautiful little blue planet. Suddenly the hard yards didn't seem so hard after all!

thinking about surf

2010-03-15T05:43:00.000-07:00

Its been awhile since I've been to the beach, and I'm missing it! I had a back injury, fell off the (diet and exercise) wagon and gained 9 lbs. back, and am hating this ageing thing!

But I must not give in! So I finally, in the past week, began exercising again with some level of diligence, and thinking about getting back in the surf.

I hang out at Swaylock's surfboard design forum, and hope for good waves soon!

Oh yeah, and I've been working on my homebuilt surfboard projects!

staining the deck and painting the hull

2010-03-03T19:00:00.001-08:00

...that's the good part. The other thing I have to report is that I went to the coast to go surfing last Sunday, the day of the Todos Santos contest. The waves were overhead, very consistent, with a powerful rip.

But they looked fun! It was a tough decision, but I passed on paddling out. I hate it, but I have to admit it when I know I'm just not in good enough shape to handle what's out there.

One of the hardest things about coming back to surfing in my mid 50's is recognizing my limitations. I recently watched the movie Surfing For Life, about surfing on into the senior years, and the movie deals with this painful issue. It is a great, inspiring, but sobering, and thought-provoking movie.

it's shaped!

2010-02-26T09:31:00.001-08:00

progress report on my hybrid home-build

2010-02-23T19:14:00.001-08:00

Cambria Days

2010-02-19T09:20:00.000-08:00

Made a visit to Cambria while my daughter was here on vacation, right after pres. day weekend, the weekend of the big Maverick's contest. Waves were big the first day we arrived. The first picture is the pelican rock at the Fiscalini hiking trail. The next day I met with a Swaylock's contact, and he showed me his bamboo laminated belly board (shown in the second picture), and took me surfing at his local spot.

I paddled out, but didn't get any waves. Part of the frustration of starting over at my age is that sometimes it doesn't click, you just have to keep at it. The waves were powerful but inconsistent, shifty, and the spot was a little tricky to negotiate. So I was happy to have suited up and paddled out, something I wouldn't even have thought possible a short time back, but disappointed to not get any waves.

Something he said has stuck in my mind, and I'm trying to work it out. He's a surfer who is my age, has been surfing for over 30 years, and is in good general physical condition. He said "most the sufers I know our age have accepted that they have to ride either belly boards, or longboards." I guess I haven't accepted that...and now wonder if maybe I should. Neither interests me, but I guess I'd choose longboards, if I had to choose.

By the third day we had to head back to LAX to drop my daughter and her husband off, so we didn't have time to surf. But we saw some good looking offshore-blown waves at Cayucos, and some fun waves at Rincon. Ventura was small but glassy.

the duchesses of Oregon surf!

2010-02-15T06:43:00.000-08:00

Here's a link to an inspiring story - 5 women, all 50 years or older, decide to take up surfing!

went surfing...

2010-02-14T18:08:00.000-08:00

...and had a blast! Waves were small, shifty beachbreak peaks without any punch, but I wanted to get some shots of my new board, and my daughter and her husband, who are visiting from Montana, volunteered.

My favorite spot is just up the coast, but not a good spot for taking photos, or for those waiting on the beach. So I can't say the waves are anything to brag about, but we had a nice family outing, and I got some much needed exercise and practise.

Surfrider Motel

2010-02-10T16:51:00.000-08:00

My normally hard-working board-building room has gone soft! Yep. My daughter and her husband arrive from Montana tonight, for a weeklong visit. And while I often would come out and work on my boards while I was supposed to be "converting" my shaping room into a cozy hotel room, my wife finally put an end to that, and now its official, the board room is out of commission!

Ah, the sacrifices we make for our beloved family!

OK, its not the Hilton. But this is as cozy as its gonna get...for now! My wife has run off to get some sheets and pillows, leaving me to dust, vacuum, and play on the computer LOL!

My beloved boards-in-progress have been relegated to the junk-filled garage!

At Random

2010-02-07T21:08:00.001-08:00

Some thoughts at random, this sunday evening. Superbowl Sunday, and I really didn't care, didn't watch the game. Never been a sports spectator type, and watching football on tv doesn't appeal to me, like it does to so many. Now surfing, I never get bored with that!

My wetsuit - a Matuse 3/2, with O'Neill booties gloves and hood. I hate the hood, because in the water if someone tries to talk to me, I can't hear a word they're saying! I want a 4/3 for winter, but as always, its the money thing.

I'm kinda blind in the water - since I'm nearsighted and I wear corrective lenses on land. Hope to get some surfing glasses someday, but like I say, money is tight right now, with remodeling work being so slow.

My daughter is coming from Montana to visit for a week next week, and I'm planning on at least one day of surfing while she's here, since she wants to go to the beach. Maybe she could get some photos of me riding my new board - if I could find a break close enough to shore to take pics! I'll probably kook out for the camera!

I haven't been training, because I've been sick with the flu for over a week. I hate that! (well, I am pretty regular with the push ups and situps, but we all know that ain't enough by itself!) I really miss living by the beach, running on the sand, getting out in the water several times a week. Now, living in Bakersfield, weeks go by between surf sessions. Arrgghh!

I'm a regular at swaylock's, the surfboard design forum. I love talking surfboard design. I have so much lost time to make up for! Even when I was really into surfing, I didn't make my own boards or think much about design. Man did I miss out on a lot. I so wish I had discovered the joy of making my own boards, and studying surfboard design, years ago!

Fine Woodworking gets washed out to sea!

2010-02-06T20:42:00.000-08:00

Hey - check my surfboard out on FineWoodworking.com! Just click here.

7'6" hybrid shape

2010-02-05T15:36:00.000-08:00

6' 7" retro fish

2010-02-05T15:35:00.000-08:00

my latest project - 2 hws

2010-02-04T23:40:00.000-08:00

I've been stoked on this "Bahrman Rails" thing for awhile, but so far no one else is getting into it. I posted photos and explanation on several surfboard bulding sites (compsand, swaylocks, tree-to-sea), hoping to catch some interest. Even started a build-method group on one site, with 25 members - but no participation, other than me LOL!

I guess its different enough that a lot of people just don't seem to get it. What I like is these rails are so strong that they kinda "carry" the structure. So to push the limits, I'm trying to build a couple of boards with basically no internal structure. Not totally original, I know it has been done before. But I've never done it, and no one has ever done it exactly the way I would. So that's what I'm doing!

99.9% of all the hollow wooden surfboards being built today are built around a framework, similar to a model airplane wing. Now I saw somewhere on the internet where a shaper said he built a completely hollow wood board, but he held his cards pretty close to the vest as to how he did it, and never said much about performance.

BTW, when I post the pics with this, the html gets all messed up, so I've deleted them, and I'll post them separately, they'll show up above this post.

my experimental "hollow" board!

2010-02-03T08:27:00.000-08:00

I'll try to get some pics and explanation on my other blog, but since I don't have any followers over there yet, I'll post here first.

This is an attempt at a truly hollow wood surfboard - no framework! At least so far. I may add some minimal framework at some point - we'll see how it goes.

I was supposed to be getting my backyard outbuilding ready for my daughter's visit (she'll be sleeping there a few nights). Instead, my wife caught me working on my surfboards - busted!! hahaha. Anyway, here's a peek at what I was up to... (no news on my "conditioning" regimen - since I've been sick with the flu and getting horribly out of shape again!)

gestapo tactics at the county beach!

2010-02-03T08:24:00.000-08:00

My letter to the editor of my local paper pretty well sums up this bad experience!

------------------------------------------

A former resident of Ventura, I now live in Bakersfield. But I still love Ventura, and the waves that grace her shores. At age 54, I chose a surfboard over shuffleboard, and returned to the ocean sport I love, after a long hiatus. On Jan. 9th, a Saturday morning trip to Ventura County's Faria Beach turned ugly, however, when a park ranger with an attitude unleashed her venom on myself and my unsuspecting wife. My wife dropped me off at the beach, and stopped in the "wrong" place (had no idea - it seems it was an "overnight" spot), in an open stretch of available parking by the south end of the park. I had gotten out, excited to try my new home-made wooden surfboard, and got my surfing gear ready, which took maybe 5 minutes, and then my wife was off to the yardsales. As she was about to pull out, a "Ranger Sylvia" showed up and blocked her way, with a chip on her shoulder and a look of seething hatred.

She began shouting that we were in the wrong spot, that she hated surfers, and was "so sick" of them. So there it was - I was a despised "surfer", and my wife had stopped in the wrong place to drop me off! Although it turns out the printed park rules allow for a 30 minute grace period for those using an overnight spot to park first and then pay (which I did, once I found out), we were fined $75 within 5 minutes of arriving. Now, I was probably surfing here back when Ranger Sylvia's diaper, and not just her attitude, was full of, well, never mind - but I had never heard of this rule (which probably didn't exist back then). When I tried to pay the $30, her assistant "Ranger Bacon" refused to take my money, saying "you're full of [excrement]", "I don't work here", and "don't waste your money", all the while threatening to write another parking ticket!

Wow, what a scam - they wouldn't take my $30 for using the parking spot - but they gladly fined me $75 for not having paid! I finally had to deposit my check in a metal depository. Does Ventura County sanction prejudice, hatred, and abusive behavior when it's couched in beaureaucratic double-talk and county uniforms? Or is this just a money-making ploy for an anemic county budget? I went to the beach to enjoy the sport of surfing, and it cost me a $75 fine, a $30 parking fee, and an earful of hatred. You can probably guess which one hurts the most!

like riding a bicycle...NOT!

2010-01-21T19:43:00.000-08:00

So, to summarize my "comeback" at this point: The outstanding emotion that comes to mind is frustration. My mind wants to get out there and surf like I used to, but the body is not cooperating! Each time I've paddled out, I have done a little better than the time before. But each time, I have been frustrated at how slow it has been in coming back to me.

First of all, even with exercising more, and losing weight, I still get winded on the paddle out. I never used to. I get leg cramps. I never used to. I get cold. Yeah, I used to get cold, but it was offset by the stoke of catching and riding a lot of waves. I don't catch nearly as many waves as I used to - a lot of 'em get by me. Of course, I never experienced crowds like this before, either. 200 sufers out, where there used to be 30 or 40.

For weight loss, I cannot diet. It just doesn't work for me. I don't have the time or inclination to plan meals, count calories, etc. So what I do is just consciously try to eat less. Two meals a day instead of three. And I learn to appreciate a little hunger. I consider it a weight loss tool. A little hunger is my friend. When I feel that hunger, I think, there's my weight loss tool, in action!

So, every time I have paddled out, I have come closer to "getting it back". But what I haven't had yet, and am really getting frustrated over, is a good day of surfing good waves.

I wood

2010-01-17T19:21:00.000-08:00

I've decided not to go into too much detail on my homebuilt hollow wooden surfboard, since this blog is about my journey back into the surf. I've started a separate blog on my homebuilt surfboards entitled "alternative surfboards and bahrman rails".

Finishing the board was for me an important step back into surfing. It is now my main board, pretty much the only one I use, at least until I complete the next two I've started building.

Hopefully, I can continue to ride my own homebuilt surfboards from now on.

Bahrman Rails

2010-01-17T14:47:00.000-08:00

plan the work, work the plan...

2010-01-17T14:42:00.000-08:00

so I came up with a rough "plan", or blueprint, of what I wanted to build, figuring I could improvise along the way. I had my own system figured out (kinda) in my mind, which I now call "Bahrman Rails". I started with the rails first, and I was on my way!

the kookbox experiment

2010-01-17T13:48:00.000-08:00

Surfing the internet, I came across some really cool photos of wood surfboards. Being a carpenter, I took note. On flickr, I earmarked a few as "favorites". And in the back of my mind, was this desire to build my own surfboard.

I thought about it, and started searching "wood surfboard", for more info. I found there were kits and plans available, but some were pretty spendy, and most weren't the size and shape I wanted. Actually, a lot of them looked pretty because of the wood, but the shapes looked kinda "clunky" to me - the rails seemed too square, and the decks too flat. I also discovered that a surfer named Tom Blake developed the hollow surfboard methods long ago, and that his light new surf and paddleboards were called "kookboxes" by the solid-redwood surfboard crowd.

One thing that I noted was the similarity that many of the surfboard building methods had with model airplane wing building. I noted this, because as a kid I had built many, many model airplane wings. In fact, as an adult I had often considered building another, just for the fun of building it. But I didn't need more stuff in my crowded house and garage, and I really didn't want to buy expensive radio control equipment, model engines, and the like.

But a surfboard, now that I could always make room for! So that was it, I decided to build a hollow wooden surfboard, using model airplane building methods. To save money, it was to be my own design, not a kit or purchased plans, and it would use wood I already had, to the extent possible.

I found a great website called tree to sea, which was really a message board / support group for builders of hollow wooden surfboards. I signed up, logged on, and started reading and asking questions. Since then, the site has moved to a new arena, which I find kinda confusing and hard to follow. So I've started my own forum, in case others like me are seeking an easier-to-negotiate forum for discussing alternative surfcraft.

But I still hang out at the old tree to sea site, even 'tho its died down quite a bit since the new one opened, and I hang out at the new one too. I'm learning, gradually!

harsh reality - pummeled!

2010-01-17T09:57:00.001-08:00

So, shortly after purchasing my new "retro-fish" surfboard, I took it out at Faria Beach in Ventura. The surf was pounding at about 4 to 6 foot, and I had butterflies in my stomache I was so excited. I suited up with a "spring suit" - a warm weather wetsuit my wife had bought me at a yardsale for $10 (although the water temp was far from warm!), and hurriedly paddled out, anxious to get into some decent waves finally.

Wow, did I get pounded! I had forgotten the raw power that 4-6' waves have, and just paddling out was kinda scary for me. That's a medium-small wave in surfing terms, but it packs a big wallop, especially on a rocky / sandbar point break like I was at, where the wave breaks top-to-bottom, and the lip comes down like a sledge hammer.

Then, something happened that had never happened before when I was surfing - my calf muscles started cramping BIG TIME. I mean like huge baseball-sized knots as hard as a rock! This was just on my way out to the lineup, I hadn't even gotten into position yet.

I massaged my leg, and tried to relax while keeping an eye on these bone-crushing waves (mind you, there was a day when these waves would have been nothing more than a bit of fun for me - as they were for the other surfers in the water that day LOL). But the cramp would re-appear, in a different spot, but always between my feet and my knees.

So I stayed out and watched the surf from the lineup, but couldn't catch or ride anything. I made a solemn promise to myself to lose about 20 lbs., and start really training in earnest. I had to get into better shape if I was gonna do this. Back in the day, I surfed almost every day. I also swam, ran and lifted weights. I was young and strong. Now, I did none of those things, and was neither young, nor as the surf was telling me, was I strong!

The cramps had been so powerful that I was sore for days afterwards.

a new board - and I discover that I AM RETRO!

2010-01-17T00:56:00.000-08:00

OK, so if I was gonna get serious about this, one of the first things I'd need was a surfboard. I searched ebay, wondering if I could even find a "fish" shape surfboard, like I used to ride years ago. They were pretty off the beaten path design-wise, and not among the most popular shapes. But to my surprise, they had caught on, and there were plenty of "retro-fish" shapes available. Hahaha - my favorite shape was retro! I suddenly realized, after 23 years away, I was retro!

That was great, but the shapes had still changed, in spite of the "retro" tag. And I had gained weight, and was out of shape. I knew I couldn't ride a 5'11" like I used to. So I found a 6'10" shape that looked good to me, white with blue rails. The price was $350 plus $100 shipping. Which was good, as far as pricing went - New boards were going in the $600 - $800 range, and more. Fins were running about $70 a pair, leashes about $25, and board bags about $120. Yikes, this was gonna get expensive!

Well, the ebay listing said they accepted offers, so my wife called and offered $250. They said they'd take $300, which actually shocked me, so she said Let's put it on the credit card, and do it. We drove down to Orange County in L.A., where the seller was located, to save the $100 shipping cost. And they threw in the fins, leash, and board bag, to boot! I was stoked. I had just bought a surfboard!

But talking with the sales girl about her boards (she had a warehouse full), I learned something kinda disillusioning: the boards were all made in China, by a factory full of shapers who didn't even surf! Now I knew why the price was so "good" - the people who made it were probably paid next to nothing. I had visions of a sweat shop manned with child slave labor! I later discovered the cost of materials to make my board would easily add up to the price I paid for it!

I had my board, and was excited to try it out, but I began thinking about the possibility of making my own boards after this, wondering if I could even accomplish such a thing.

Leo Carrillo the following week

2010-01-16T22:08:00.000-08:00

So, a week later, Bruce drove us out to Leo Carrillo. The surf was small, but I used a different board - one I found I could ride much better than the longboard you saw me standing in front of in the last post.

This one was a Hydrotech Softops board, a beginner funboard shape, but smaller and rounder than the longboard I used at Malibu (I've never been a longboard surfer). The surf again was small, but rideable at about 2-3', and I was able to paddle into the pack and catch a few fun ones. I liked paddling and catching waves with the board, but still, once I stood up, I wanted more maneuverability.

I knew I would have to get in much better shape, and get a smaller board. But I had done it - caught waves and stood up, without Forrest Gumping out quite as bad as I did at Malibu! Now the fire was really getting re-kindled!

fast forward - 23 years later...

2010-01-16T21:02:00.000-08:00

So that was that, I was an ex-surfer, with no surfboard, no wetsuit, and only memories of my time in the lineup.

Then, one day 6 months ago, late in the summer of 2009, in I was in Los Angeles working on my elderly mom's house (she's 92). This is the house I grew up in. And my old surf buddy Bruce came by. Seems he still lives down the street, in the house he grew up in.

Now back in the day, I always thought I was more into surfing than Bruce was, but it turns out he stayed with it, after all these years, while I had let it go.

And he mentioned that we ought to go surfing someday. I laughed it off - told him I was out of shape, and hadn't been on a board in 23 years.

A few days later, his younger brother Bert was visiting from Utah, where he is a ski-slope rescue patrolman, and he also invited me to go surfing. My reply was the same. But Bert was a little more insistent - he said Tomorrow that ends. I've got an extra board, and Bruce has an extra wetsuit, and we're goin' surfing!

So we did. I was so excited, I could barely sleep the night before. We went to Malibu, Bert got fined $300 for making a wrong left turn on a "setup" traffic violation, and I paddled out, something I hadn't imagined myself doing for 20 plus years.

I had an active lifestyle as a contractor / carpenter, but despite this, I found I was SO horribly out of shape! Honestly, the surf was all of about 1' high, and I could barely get out. But the miracle was, I actually caught a few waves, and stood up.
Look at the photo of me here, and you'll see that I had a little weight issue going on! Since then, I've dropped 15 lbs., and I'm working on maybe dropping another 10 - but its not coming off easy LOL!

Nonetheless, I was starting to feel the stoke again!

hooked on surfing

2010-01-16T20:37:00.000-08:00

It wasn't too long after I got my car and my board that I got my second board, and a wetsuit. It was off to Santa Monica every chance I got, and then, weekend camping trips to Emma Wood state beach in Ventura.

Back then, the surf in Ventura was uncrowded. Surfer's Point, as it's now called, was "C-Street" (California Street) to us, it reeked of sewage (there was a sewage plant nearby), but had fun uncrowded surf, and a dirt parking area that was always free and always available. Above that was Stables, a more critical wave, less forgiving, but a good surf when the conditions were right.

Once I graduated high school, I moved to Ventura to be closer to the beach, and to pursue my love of surfing. And for 15 years, that's just what I did. Lots of surf trips up and down the coast - from Trestles to Jalama, and two trips to Hawaii (Maui and Kona). Lots of surf sessions at The Point, Oil Piers, Pitas Point, Emma woods kelp bed, Ventura Overhead, Rincon, Rivermouth. No shortage of fun waves! Not to mention free-diving on Anacapa, and Catalina. I loved the ocean.

Then, life intervened, and some very nasty circumstances brought about by some very nasty people (enough said!) led me to leave the coast I loved, and the sport I loved. Eventually, I thought about it less and less, although I often found myself in the surf in my dreams - usually, these dreams were frustrating experiences where I would see the surf, but be unable to get to the waves.

Even now, it saddens me to think that I had to eventually sell off my surfboards, and my favorite, a 5'11" fish, was cut up to become someone's "beach style" furniture!! (I wish they had never told me!)

start with a little background

2010-01-16T20:15:00.000-08:00

Growing up in the Burbank / North Hollywood area of L.A., I loved going to the beach on hot summer days. By the time I was twelve or thirteen, I was riding the bus by myself to the beach, taking my inflatable raft with me, for fun in the surf. The bus route took me through Hollyweird and several bus changes, but ended up in Santa Monica by the pier.

So Santa Monica was my first surfing experience, on my raft. Then, when I got my driver's license at age 16, I got a job, a used '64 Chevy Nova, some surfboard racks, a used surfboard, and I became a Bay Street soup-riding regular. Yeah baby, I was STOKED!