grom* again!

This is the tale of my journey back into the surfing world at age 54, after a 23 year hiatus. Yep, 23 years landlocked and dry-docked, in the city of Bakersfield. So I knew it wasn't going to be a cakewalk. But like any journey, documenting and sharing can enhance the experience, and become part of the learning process. So thanks for stopping by! - Huck


*grom: for the non-surfers, grom means a beginner. Also called grommet, grem, gremmie, or (going way way back), ho-dad.



Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Pro Watch

I sat and watched a contest the other day (Dane R. wasn't there, unfortunately although it was in his backyard), my first time ever. I've never been much of a follower of pro surfing. My disinterest is partially philosophical - I resent something as free and fun as surfing to be measured, judged, sponsored, and used to sell for the corporation LOL. I don't even like pictures of airs, because half the time I can't see the wave! And I don't do airs, so I can't relate.

But doggone, it was a lot of fun watching the pros in person. The outstanding thing was the speed - riding the same waves as I do, they just go so much faster. And airs are a blast to watch in person, them guys are acrobats! One thing I noticed - how much more "crouched" the pros ride than the rest, like a spring in compression.

Posted by at 7:06 PM

1 comments:

  1. Welcome back, kind of like riding a bicycle, little rusty but it all comes back. Agree about measuring something that is free. Here, our local contests are more about seeing friends and testing yourself.

    Looks like we'll get more swell action this week.
    take care,
    dan

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