grom* again!

This is the tale of my journey back into the surfing world at age 54, after a 23 year hiatus. Yep, 23 years landlocked and dry-docked, in the city of Bakersfield. So I knew it wasn't going to be a cakewalk. But like any journey, documenting and sharing can enhance the experience, and become part of the learning process. So thanks for stopping by! - Huck



*grom: for the non-surfers, grom means a beginner. Also called grommet, grem, gremmie, or (going way way back), ho-dad.



Monday, October 25, 2010

My ONE YEAR anniversary

This month marks my one year anniversary since coming back to surfing after 23 years away, and since beginning my first homebuilt hollow wooden surfboard! Its been a great ride so far! In that year I have accumulated 8 surfboards, 5 which I built myself, one I rebuilt that was broken in two, and I've begun my 6th homebuilt which will be my 9th board!

I have developed my own (somewhat convoluted) system of building boards, tried and failed to get anyone else to try it , posted over 1000 messages on Swaylocks surfboard design forum and over 800 messages on tree-to-sea wood surfboard builders' forum (and read a hundred times that amount), started three blogs and one website, all related to my love of building and riding hollow wooden surfboards.

To commemorate my first year, I have inaugurated my first annual board swap - the idea is this: Someone (another surfboard builder) could give me an idea of the shape they want, and I'll build a Huck Board (wood will feature largely, of course), in exchange for a custom board they build for me.

So...I got a taker! Looks like I'll be building a Gerry Lopez style lightening bolt (single fin pintail) out of wood!

(I'm trying to keep this posting positive, because I haven't been surfing for over a week, and I know there's been waves I've been missing, but I can't afford to take any time off work for probably another week, and its killing me!!)

2 comments:

  1. I am also on a jorney back to surfing. After ten years away & several bad injuries, I'm trying to get back into surfing. I attended the San Diego Paul Jensen workshop & built a 7'4" hollow wood hybrid. Too small for me, but a sweet board. I finished a 4'10" paipo fish three weeks back. I have six more boards in process. Two framed, two ready for rails & two ready to glass. When your ready to do another swap, I'm interested

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  2. SIX boards in progress - you're addicted! I'll keep you in mind for the next "board swap" - if this one goes well and I'm feeling adventurous enough to try again!

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