gettin' STOKED!

Hi all - I haven't been posting much lately, and here's the reason: I'm working a job in Pacific Palisades, on the coast, minutes away from several excellent surf spots, including Malibu. As most of you know, I live in Bakersfield, 2 hrs. plus from the beach by freeway.

Now, I was getting frustrated with my wave count and skill level on my hws - so several people advised me to try a longboard. I started to make one, but realized I have zero - zip - zilch longboard experience, so I hesitated to just start building. Instead, I bought a used 9' p.u. foam / fiberglass board. I have been hitting the surf with it every day, crowds or no crowds, waves or no waves, before work, and some days after work too.

I have increased my wave count dramatically, and have gotten somewhere back near my old skill level. I mean, I have a ways to go, because longboarding is new to me, so I haven't gotten the board wired yet, and I'm still not as limber or as strong as I used to be. But I can paddle into some decent surf, and get some good rides, late takeoffs, bottom turns, trimming, long rides with a long paddle back out. That's what I've been missing, and I am so STOKED to get back to this place. So this has been my priority.

Making boards can wait a bit, I'm goin' SURFING! I have another week or maybe a little more on this job - I don't plan on backing off my schedule. I stay at my mom's place in L.A., and sleep on the couch. Up at 3:30 or 4 a.m., take the freeway (hour drive when there's no traffic in the early morning) to Malibu vicinity, in the water by 5 or 5:30, surf until 8, relax a bit and eat, go to work at 9, work straight through til 3, fight freeway traffic all afternoon, get back to my mom's place, take a nap, go the hardware store for supplies, eat a light meal, run a mile, hit the hay early so I can do it again tomorrow.

Today and yesterday I met up with a surfer I met on Swaylock's. He took me to a "secret spot" point break. 3 of us out - hooting each other, and saying "Go for it, this one is yours"!! Unreal. Totally tubular waves, breaking in shallow water real close to rocky shore, but totally makeable point surf, just keep an eye on the rocks, and kick out if you start getting too close. Sea lions and dolphins everywhere, gorgeous green cliffs, no one around, a real hoot. Man I love surfing!