persistence pays off

Its been a long road back, frustrating at times, but I've had a few very enjoyable surf sessions lately. Not that I'm back to surfing like I once did (I realize that may never happen with my current age/health issues), but I've been getting my "sea legs" back, catching and riding waves with more confidence - and it feels good!

Exercise and training, losing weight, proper board selection, right wave conditions, all of this has played a part. My newest board, a 9' Rockin Fig (by Rick Fignetti) has made a huge difference in my wave count. The fact that the surf has been small and relatively uncrowded has helped also.

What I've learned is this: When you've been away from surfing as long as I have, you have to start all over from scratch. Forget what you once knew or did, and allow yourself to be a beginner all over. You'll come up through the levels of ability much faster, and enjoy it more this way. Get some water time in tiny surf, riding a mat or swimming. Get a beginners' board, and hit the slower waves at the beginner spots.

Don't make the mistake I made, of getting an advanced surfboard shape, and paddling into some powerful surf, until you've worked your way up to it.

And of course, you can't overlook the obvious: just get out there in the water as much as you possibly can.