On a recent holiday, my wife said "Let's go surfing". Meaning, let's you go surfing (she doesn't surf). So who was I to argue?Then she said "Where would you go if you knew it would be uncrowded?". So I told her, but I added, "It will be crowded. It's always crowded." She ignored that. "OK", she said, "that's where we're going." You're nuts I said, it's always crowded. But I told her how to get there, and she drove. And guess what? Yup. Totally uncrowded, like 4-5 guys out. Waves small, choppy, but 3-4', some head high sets, totally rideable, and very fun!
And best of all, it clicked for me! I didn't catch every wave I paddled for, but I stood up on every wave I caught. Hit some turns. Made some sections. Felt comfortable on the waves, in control. It was so awesome to start to get the old feeling back!
And on one wave, the coolest thing happened: a dolphin popped his head up, swam for the wave, caught it, and jumped completely out of the water just a matter of feet from where I was. It was an incredible thing to witness. God is good, and I praise him for his awesome creation!




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