grom* again!

This is the tale of my journey back into the surfing world at age 54, after a 23 year hiatus. Yep, 23 years landlocked and dry-docked, in the city of Bakersfield. So I knew it wasn't going to be a cakewalk. But like any journey, documenting and sharing can enhance the experience, and become part of the learning process. So thanks for stopping by! - Huck


*grom: for the non-surfers, grom means a beginner. Also called grommet, grem, gremmie, or (going way way back), ho-dad.



Wednesday, March 3, 2010

staining the deck and painting the hull











...that's the good part. The other thing I have to report is that I went to the coast to go surfing last Sunday, the day of the Todos Santos contest. The waves were overhead, very consistent, with a powerful rip.

But they looked fun! It was a tough decision, but I passed on paddling out. I hate it, but I have to admit it when I know I'm just not in good enough shape to handle what's out there.

One of the hardest things about coming back to surfing in my mid 50's is recognizing my limitations. I recently watched the movie Surfing For Life, about surfing on into the senior years, and the movie deals with this painful issue. It is a great, inspiring, but sobering, and thought-provoking movie.


Posted by at 7:00 PM

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